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Re:如何选择这三款头盔!!
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HB Dyneema, $100, 13 ounces
Summary: For those who can’t bear to part with their old fiberglass Joe Brown, the HB Dyneema is for you. It’s almost the same shape, but weighs significantly less than its older sibling, thanks to its unique and visually stunning Dyneema (known in the United States as Spectra) and carbon fiber construction. That construction also makes it incredibly stout; it survived 10 repetitions of the UIAA/CE penetration test. Those seeking absolute comfort may want to look elsewhere, as the Dyneema is a bit Spartan on padding, with stiff plastic tabs poking out of the suspension. It does, however, sport a cushy chin strap. It also has a front-and-rear shock-cord headlamp system that is dated. Like the original Joe Brown, ventilation is not this helm’s strong suit. Overall, dedicated Joe Brown lovers should find it money well spent.
Pros: Strong and durable.
Cons: Uncomfortable suspension; limited headlamp compatibility.
Overall grade: B-
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Simond Bumper, $80, 12 ounces
Summary: The bike-style Simond Bumper is a good choice for the winter ice cragger. Those industrial-chic Frankenstein bolts on the exterior aren’t for show, they’re for the face shield. The Bumper fit most testers well, but the fit system is not permanently attached to the rear of the helmet, but instead is pasted on via hook-and-loop patches. For this reason the helmet was difficult to fit in a reasonable amount of time. Unlike most of bike-style brethren, the Bumper relies on finicky old-school its shock-cords for headlamp retention.
Pros: Light; comfortable; optional face shield.
Cons: Difficult to adjust. Limited headlamp compatibility.
Overall grade: B-
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Petzl Elios, $55, 12 ounces
Summary: One of the new-generation hybrid models, the Petzl Elios has one of the trimmest silhouettes of any helmet we tested, an asset in tight spaces. It’s also very light; one tester forgot he was wearing it and cooked up dinner at camp before he realized he still had it on. The fit system is one of the best in the test — all that’s needed is a quick twist of the ergonomic dial. On the downside, the helmet could do with a bit more padding in the rear of the suspension (it’s bare plastic) and on the polystyrene cap, where several testers noted pressure points. Padding on the chin strap would also be a plus. The Elios features good, shrouded ventilation, and, like its brother the Ecrin, mates well with headlamps. An optional face shield is available.
Pros: Light; easy to adjust; well ventilated; accommodates headlamps well.
Cons: Needs more padding.
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Petzl Ecrin Roc, $74, 1 pound
Summary: Like the Edelrid Ultralight, the Petzl Ecrin has been a staple in the suspended-shell helmet market for many years, and for good reason — it’s very durable, well ventilated, and easy to adjust. It is showing its age, however, lacking in padding, especially on the chin strap, and the vents aren’t shrouded or protected. Those with narrow heads may experience side-to-side fit issues, and ponytail wearers may experience a little discomfort from the rear straps’ plastic connection tab. The Ecrin is very headlamp compatible, which is not surprising, considering that Petzl is also one of the world’s leading manufacturers of headlamps.
Pros: Easy to adjust; accommodates headlamps well.
Cons: Needs more padding.
Overall grade: B
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Lucky Alpha, $104, 10 ounces
Summary: The hybrid-style Lucky Alpha tips the scales at a featherweight 10 ounces. The suspension is comfortable, with generous padding on the inner polystyrene, and the fit system adjusts easily with a quick-ratchet buckle. Headlamp compatibility is not an issue, though it was occasionally a struggle to slide the straps into the slots. The helmet’s major drawback was that it was too shallow. Many testers had a hard time getting a proper fit, as the suspension sits too high on the head.
Pros: Light; well ventilated.
Cons: Shallow suspension.
Overall grade: B
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Kong Scarab, $117, 10 ounces
Summary: “Straight out of Milan” is how one tester described the Kong Scarab’s appearance. This bike-hemet-style polystyrene model was easily the most exotic-looking lid in the test — the helmet’s well-shrouded vents do indeed remind one of a scarab. Aside from the excellent ventilation, the Scarab also earns top marks for comfort, with a generous — but not chunky — layer of padding inside, and a padded chin strap. While the fit system was very easy to adjust, there were occasional problems with the push-and-rotate button popping open when bumped. Headlamps were difficult to put on and difficult to adjust for position, due to the headlamp clamps also functioning as the end points of the chin strap. Ponytail wearers may have issues with the rear of the suspension.
Pros: Comfortable; easy to adjust.
Cons: Adjustment dial can pop open.
Overall grade: A-
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Edelrid Ultralight, $50, 14 ounces
Summary: The Edelrid Ultralight has been a staple in the climbing-helmet market for well over a decade, and for good reason. It’s light, comfortable, well-ventilated (for a suspended-shell lid), and won’t wallop your wallet. The suspension cinches down with a minimum of effort and is well padded. Comfort should be even better this year, as Edelrid has added more padding. Unlike many longstanding designs, the Ultralight’s hook retention system works quite well with most headlamps.
Pros: Comfortable; light; accommodates headlamps well.
Cons: Dated styling.
Overall grade: B
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C.A.M.P. Silver Star, $72, 1 pound
Summary: The C.A.M.P. Silver Star was a universal test favorite for comfort and adjustability. The suspension is well padded, and treated with an anti-bacterial formula that helps keep down the skank factor. The sliding-track adjustment system has inch and centimeter scales that display the circumference of the current adjustment, so when you switch back and forth from hat to bare head, it’s easy to re-size correctly. The helmet’s headlamp clips are very secure, but still allowed for easy headlamp attachment and removal. The Silver Star’s singular drawback is its removable suspension, which sometimes can be jolted loose. Safety is not compromised as a result, but fit can be.
Pros: Comfortable; easy to adjust; accommodates headlamps well.
Cons: Suspension can loosen.
Overall grade: A
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