DMM vs Petzl

ivan

Anarchist
The Anarchist is a leashless tool, this style of climbing allows you to make more gymnastic moves, shake out, hang an axe over a shoulder and swap hands making sideways moves a doddle.
The Anarchist and Rebel are the only axes in the world that are hot forged and the reasons why these axes work so well is best described in the way we manufacture them.
In hot forging the shaft we have to wind the forging presses up to 800 tonnes of pressure, to flow the aluminium into the unique signature I Beam structure. This allows us to distribute the weight and strength to make a perfectly balanced tool.
We also hot forge the (Type B) Hedgehog topped pick from EN24 steel, a process which allows the intricate design this top end axe demands improving strength and ice penetration.
The hammer is investment cast allowing us to make this very intricate 3D design which keeps weight to a minimum and strength to a premium.
The dual compound handles and adjustable trigger fingers are injection moulded which allows us to create an ergonmic handle that improves precision, comfort and support minimizing pump and maximizing enjoyment.
Product        Weight        Length        Catalogue No          
Anarchist        650g          50cm        A0222          
B Type Pick        NA         NA        C0224          
Screw set        NA        NA         A0227S

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[[  本帖最后由 piloteer 于 2015-9-14 19:23 编辑 [/ ]

ivan

NOMIC
Leashless ice climbing tool
The NOMIC leashless ice tool allows climbers to ascend ice with the fluidity and freedom of rock climbing. The removable pick weights help to literally propel the pick into the ice. The ergonomic, adjustable grip can be held in multiple ways, opening up new possibilities, without the dreaded pick shift when switching positions. The included ASTRO pick was designed for drytooling and hooking on a variety of formations, while still allowing for easy cleaning.
    * Molded, ergonomic grip allows for multiple gripping options; grip size can be adjusted to accommodate different hand sizes or glove combinations
    * Tool and pick geometry have been carefully designed to reduce pick shift when switching grip positions
    * Pick weights help propel the pick for solid placements in all types of ice. Can be removed to cut down on weight when drytooling
    * Design of the included ASTRO pick corresponds to the handle's multiple grips: each grip position corresponds to a specific tooth on the pick for increased holding power and less pick shift
    * GRIPTAPE on the upper handle provides better grip and thermal insulation
Technical specifications
ASTRO pick included
Shaft: type T
Length: 48 cm
CE/UIAA
635 g

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[[  本帖最后由 piloteer 于 2015-9-14 19:23 编辑 [/ ]

ivan

去年也用了nomic 感觉挺好
看上了DMM 不知哪位大侠用过， 说说感受呢

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[[  本帖最后由 piloteer 于 2015-9-14 19:23 编辑 [/ ]

天空wk3368

dmm 的东西华而不实
当然是买nomic

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[[  本帖最后由 piloteer 于 2015-9-14 19:23 编辑 [/ ]

ivan

转个 站：

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[[  本帖最后由 piloteer 于 2015-9-14 19:23 编辑 [/ ]

ivan

看了些 上一些评价 Anarchist还不错呢
也许是petzl的用家太多（特别是国内） 对DMM了解不多呢？

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[[  本帖最后由 piloteer 于 2015-9-14 19:23 编辑 [/ ]

w13m

大咪咪那个魔林有一对,06年的时候使过几把,感觉不是用来打镐的,重心比较靠后
大咪咪的什么什么FLY王冰有一对,爪子也有,也不太好使,冰雪器材他家的实在不怎么样,价还不低
不过锁到是一绝,我超喜欢,光是它家的就有四个锁一个滑轮锁了

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ivan

多谢楼上指点，在这篇文章中好像也说到了挥镐的问题（没有说明是否和重心有关）
作者发现如果向上握把，会变得更顺利。

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[[  本帖最后由 piloteer 于 2015-9-14 19:23 编辑 [/ ]

天山马贼

DMM那款我的感觉也是重心太靠后，不好控制。
还是Quark顺手

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[[  本帖最后由 piloteer 于 2015-9-14 19:23 编辑 [/ ]

ivan

god! 我觉得ergo中心很靠后呢  quark 倒是很不错的

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[[  本帖最后由 piloteer 于 2015-9-14 19:23 编辑 [/ ]

katucha

dmm
是个好 站啊

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[[  本帖最后由 piloteer 于 2015-9-14 19:23 编辑 [/ ]

砾岩

重心越靠手柄，转动惯量越小，越容易控制镐，越不容易入冰，就像鼓槌和铁锤，一个可以精确控制落点没法砸钉子，一个没那么灵活方但便砸钉。挂镐和打镐的偏向区别，混合攀登和纯硬冰攀登的区别。