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发表于 2010-11-22 04:01
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附：抓绒制作的一些技巧，英文，个人觉得挺实用，现在没空翻，要不咱的翻译小组劳动下？嘿嘿嘿~~
Sewing Techniques
Select a simple pattern with few design features. Loose-fitting styles work best. Eliminate as
many seams as possible as bulk is your greatest challenge. Consider a custom closure such as a
separating zipper, buttons/toggles and loops, or heavy-duty grippers instead of buttons and
buttonholes.
Use a "with nap" layout view. Whenever possible, eliminate the underside of collars and cuffs,
etc.; or use a coordinating cotton or cotton/polyester fabric instead of double thickness of fleece.
Polyester lining fabric is great for the back/underside of pockets. Eliminate facing seams or the
facing itself.
Pattern weights are a good solution to thick fabric when laying out pattern for cutting.
Dressmakers’ pins can get lost in deep pile. Long quilter pins work well. To cut, use very sharp
shears that are in good condition. Cut with long, smooth strokes. Remove the lint from shears with
alcohol and a damp cloth.
If both sides of the fabric look the same, mark the right side along a seam allowance edge, with a
small piece of tape. Use standard 5/8-inch seam allowances.
Either a sewing machine or serger can be used.
When using a sewing machine; select a size 12(80) Universal needle, for sewing most fleece
fabrics. Set machine for a long stitch (8 to 10 stitches per inch). A straight stitch or narrow
zigzag works best. It is often helpful to decrease the presser foot pressure if possible. If
fleece is very thick, it may be helpful to set pressure foot onto seam allowance about ¼ inch
and start stitching. It can also be helpful to hold fabric taut as you sew.
For serger; select a wide 3- or 4-thread stitch. The use of a 4-thread stitch compacts the
fleece for less bulk. Use a longer than usual stitch length of 3 to 3.5mm. Reduce presser foot
pressure. It may be helpful to hold fabric taut as you sew.
Fleece does not ravel; therefore, there is no need for a seam finish or edge finish. A mock flat-fell
seam is a neat option. Other good options are double stitched together and trimmed, zigzagged
together and trimmed, and top stitched seams.
If darts are used, slash open and trim if necessary. Finger press flat.
NEVER press with a hot iron as it will melt the fleece fibers. Finger press whenever possible.
If design needs it, a fusible interfacing can be used and applied with a damp press cloth,
using moderate iron and steam settings.
Exposed zippers are used frequently in vests, jackets, and coats. Choose a coordinating or
contrasting color. If you cannot find the exact length you need, purchase a longer one and shorten
it. To shorter, cut off the excess at the top, not the bottom. When applying the zipper, avoid
stretching the edges. Consider stabilizing fleece edges and holding the zipper in place at the same
time by using wash-away basting tape.
Conventional type hems are generally too bulky. Consider finishing edges with ribbing or
contrasting binding made from a two-way stretch fabric such as bathing suit knit.
Other finishes include:
• a hand blanket stitch using yarn
• blanket stitch on serger using a 3-thread flatlock stitch and loosening the needle thread
tension (or removing thread from tension entirely)
• a flat hem (turned up, no edge finish) with single, multiple, or decorative row(s) of top
stitching.
On sleeveless items; armhole edges can be turned under and top stitched or serged, turned under,
and top stitched.
If a drawstring casing is needed for a hood or waistline, use machine-sewn eyelets. They seem to
work better than metal grommets which can pull out easily in soft fleece.
Don't be afraid to try decorative machine stitching to stylize a garment. Stabilize area with tearaway
or wash-away stabilizer before stitching. Practice stitches on scraps before using them on
garment to get the effect. Ripping is not easy or recommended on fleece. |
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发表于 2010-11-22 03:41
发表于 2010-11-22 10:42
发表于 2010-11-22 10:51
