Outdoor Clothing & Footwear Recommendations
作者： Mark Verber
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Outdoor Clothing & Footwear Recommendations
Part of Recommended Outdoor Gear by Mark Verber
Information in this document:
Torso: Base, Vapor Barrier, Wind Shell, Insulation, Rain Shell, Soft Shell
Legs
Headwear, Handwear
Footwear
For each type of items I list a rational (e.g. why you want this item), my choice, options, and low cost options.
Layers System
Conventional wisdom is that you should dress in three layers: a base to manage moisture; a middle to provide insulation and a shell to protect you from the elements such as wind and rain. A slight. but superior variant of this system is to have an windshirt between a base layer and the insulation layer. In many conditions the base + windshirt is often enough to keep people comfortable when active. In colder conditions the insulation and/or shell layer can be placed over the windshirt without removing it. This approach is recommended by the folks at Pro Mountain Sports on their 3/4 layer clothing page. You also might be interested to look at a discussion of the US military's new protective combat uniform and the military morons military clothing review.
Materials
In the back country or when you are traveling light you typically you want clothing made from materials which dry quickly and retain their performance characteristics even when wet such as modern synthetics, silk, or high quality wool. Cotton is inappropriate for the back country. Cotton can absorb 40% of it's weight in water and can take five times as long to dry as some synthetics! FabricLink has a nice index of high performance materials and Keith Conover wrote up his experiences with different clothing materials. In the future expect to see materials that virtually clean themselves like the Schoeller's nanospheres.
You should also keep in mind that there is a durability / weight trade-off. Clothing made by big name outdoor brands (especially labeled "Expedition") is often seriously overbuilt. You can save significant weight while at the same time having items which have very long lives. When you venture into the extreme / ultra-light you should expect that items will wear out. For example, in the late 1970s I purchased a heavy weight, weather resistant mountain parka. It must have weighted 3lbs and would last forever in almost any conditions. I finally sold this jacket in 2004 because I had no use for it. Around 1980 I purchased a 12 oz shell to wear when I didn't want to lug around a 3 lb shell. I used this lighter shell for something like ten years, gave to a friend, and he has gotten another ten years out of the jacket. In recent years I have been using an ultra-light 3oz wind-shirt. After just two years it already has a couple small tears.
Manufacturers
I love nearly all the clothing made by Arc'Teryx, MontBell, and Patagonia: they have great design sense, use innovative materials, fit me well, and are super high quality. Marmot, Outdoor Research, and Mountain Hardware consistently manufacture a broad range of well designed and high quality clothing. I really like the materials used by Cloudveil, but I have sometimes been disappointed by the quality of construction and attention to design details. I think that GoLite has been very uneven, produced a number of really great items, and a number of mediocre garments as well. Northface (TNF) used to make great, bombproof clothing. For the last decade or two they were more of a fashion brand, but they seem to be trying to make a come-back as a real outdoor clothing company.
Base Layer Torso
Mountain Hardware
Canyon Shirt
Sekri Level 1
Long Sleeve Zip-Tee
Rational: You want something which will wick moisture away from your body. In warm weather a wicking base will help keep you cool by provide significantly more surface area than your skin to promote evaporation of your sweat. A base layer can provide addition surface area only if it retains it's structure when wet. Many fabrics (cotton for example) collapse when saturated making it feel hotter and sticky. In cold weather evaporation tends to play a smaller role in cooling... conductive cooling tends to be the bigger issue. A good wicking base layer pulls water away from your skin which helps you stay warm. [Note: in extreme cold conditions consider using a Vapor Barrier]
My Choice: In warmer conditions (>50F) I wear a Mountain Hardware Canyon Shirt for daytime activities because it's durable, dries quickly, has nice big pockets, has modest side panels to aid ventilation, keeps sun and bugs at bay, and can pass for a "normal" shirt in towns. In cooler conditions (daytime 30-50F) I switch to wearing a Sekri Level 1 zip-neck base layer shirt made from Power Dry with X-static which I like a lot except the zipper is temperamental. If the daytime in going to be <30F I wear a Patagonia R.5 base layer (Polartec Power Dry fabric) which seems to breath, wick, and dry better than Capilene, and is quite warm. Unlike many light-weight backpackers I will sometimes bring a second shirt for when it's cooler and/or I am sleeping. In warmer weather (low >40F) my night-time base layer is a Sekri Level 1 shirt. In colder condition when I am not wearing my R.5 I take a Montbell Inner Fleece jacket which isn't as good at moving moisture, but is warmer than my other base layers and works well as a layering piece during the day.
Options: There are lots of materials for base layers. Malden Mills Power Dry is my favorite, and one of the best base layers for moving moisture if you are highly active. A nice refinement to Power Dry is the addition of embedded silver which worked better than any other treatment for synthetic materials to keep the typical locker room odor at bay. The US military selected Power Dry + X-static for the new PCU base layer which can be purchased from Insport and sekri. Mountain Hardware eXend base layers also use a silver based anti-microbe treatment which seems pretty effective. Power Stretch is not as soft as Power Dry, but more body hugging and durable... great for cool-cold weather climbing and other abrasion prone activities. Patagonia's Capilene was been considered the gold standard by most people for years. Marmot DriClime, Lowe Alpine's Dryflo and GoLite C-Thru base layers are all fine materials as well. Some people rave about Norwegian Brynje mesh base layers because they dry quickly and give a lot of warmth for weight provided the next layer restricts air flow. In the US you can find Brynje sold a few places such as reliableracing. If you want to eliminate the eventual locker room odor from synthetic long underwear you could use a wool base layer, though if it gets wet you will smell like a wet sheep. There have been a number of articles such as BPL's Wonder Wool proclaiming that garments using Merino wool are significantly better than those made from synthetics. In a more recent article at BPL about comfort and moisture transport in wool and synthetic the reviewers concluded that wool will stink less and feels less clammy when wet, and that synthetic dries more quickly (~50%), is more comfortable in hot/humid conditions, and is warmer for the weight. My experience with Merino wool was that it was acceptability comfort over a wider range of temperatures, but a good synthetic base layer was more comfortable than wool in it's slightly more restrictive range and they tended to dry faster. I also found that while high quality wool like Merino were very soft to the touch and great in socks, that even high quality Merino wool was still itchy on my shoulders and back which drove me crazy. There is a really cool NASA invented material made by Outlast which phase changes to absorb heat when you are working hard, and releases heat when you are at rest. Very useful for sports which have varying levels of activity like skiing and climbing, but not useful for backpacking where you are engaged in continuous activity. There are a number of companies such as CW-X which are producing base layers with a built in taping system which helps bind together and support muscles and ligaments. In general I would recommend getting a long sleeve base layer with a deep front zipper. This provides maximum flexibility. In warm weather you can roll up the sleeves and open the neck zipper. In warmer conditions some people like to use technical tee-shirts. Another option in warmer weather are shirts made from woven (not knit) nylon such as Supplex, SolarWeave, or Solumbra. These shirts protects them from sunburn and biting bugs while still being reasonably comfortable. I think the Rail Riders Adventure Shirt is one of the best hot weather shirts thanks to it's sun protection and side venting. The two downsides of supplex in hot weather is that it blocks some wind (so it's a bit hotter than some shirts), and that it will start stinking just like polypro. I hope someone makes a x-static treated supplex shirt someday. In hot dry weather with good water sources, cotton can be a good material because you can soak your clothing and let them help keep you cool. Warning: new cotton clothing is often not very sun protective, brand new tee-shirts are the equiv. of SPF 5. You can use sunguard wash-in to raise the sun protectiveness of your clothing... but if you have washed your clothing in detergent with a "brightener" around 20 times, you will already raised the sun protection of your cotton clothing as high as it is likely to go (somewhere between SPF 15-30). American Backcountry make some cool looking technical tee-shirts.
Low Cost: Go with CoolMax base. Dupont has licensed CoolMax to multiple suppliers which has resulted in competition that keeps the price down. Duofold and Terramar CoolMax base layers can almost always be found for around $10 at Campmor and other discount outdoor stores. These shirts aren't as well finished as more expensive base layers but they are much less expensive and are very usable. For warmer weather you might already have some shirts that would work well: a biking jersey, running shirt, a soccer jersey, or light weight woven synthetic button-down.
Vapor Barrier
In extremely cold, dry conditions (don't think about them when active unless it never gets above 0F) some people find using a vapor barrier am effective way to stay warm. On some extremely cold trips in northern Canada I found them useful. The idea behind using a vapor barrier is that it helps keep the micro climate around you body at a comfortable humidity. You skins wants to be at around 79% humidity. If the humidity is below that, you skin will perspire to raise the humidity. This will cool you and result in moisture accumulating inside your insulation. A vapor barrier is designed to trap some moisture near your skin so you don't need to perspire as much, and it keeps the water vapor out of your insulation layer. Check out WarmLite's Benefits of Vapor Barriers as well as a posting of BackpackingLight's forum about the science of vapor barriers. Vapor barriers are also covered in the book Secrets of Warmth by Hal Wiess. When active, I have found that vapor barrier socks work well, pants are ok, and it is really hard to get a vapor barrier shirt to work. In a sleeping bag they work much better, though using a vapor inner bag might be simpler.
Wind Shell Torso
Patagonia Dragonfly
Rational: Wind speeds up convection cooling significantly. A simple, unlighted windshirt can ounce per ounce provide more warmth than any other clothing item. In many cases a light wind shirt over an appropriate weight base layer is all you need to keep comfortable when active. Furthermore a good wind shirt can protect you from bug bites and light drizzle when a full rain shell would be too much. Finally, wind shirts also slow evaporation a bit (not perfectly breathable) which moderates flash-off cooling.
My Choice: I love my Patagonia Dragon Fly hooded pullover. This windshirt is breathable, is able to keep me mostly dry for hours in a light drizzle and dry in a hard rain for 10-15 minutes, provides good wind protection, is a mere 3oz, compresses down to a to a package slightly larger than a cliff bar, and dries quickly. The only downside of such a light-weight wind-shirt is that it isn't super durable: I now have two tears in the material after just a few years of use. Thankfully the tears are small enough that neither usability nor performance are effected.
Options: People use the term "windshirt" for a number of different sorts of shells. I divide "wind shirts" into four categories. My favorite type of windshirt are ultra-light, ultra-breathable unlined nylon or polyester jackets with hoods and full zippers such as the Patagonia Houdini Full-Zip, Marmot Ion, and GoLite Ether. There are also a number of nice pull over and/or hoodless windshirts such as the Montane JetStream, Montbell UL Windshirt, Outdoor Research Ion., Integral Designs Pertex Windshirt, or RAB Quantum Wind Top. If I was buying a new wind shirt today, I would most likely go with the Patagonia Houdini Full-Zip because it has a long zipper for venting, extra body length, and hood. If I didn't want a hood I would most likely go with the Montane JetStream for minimal weight, great breathability. If I wanted the cheapest high quality windshirt on the market I would get a Montane Featherlite Smock (my review). Other types of "wind shirts" I discuss in my section on soft shells. The second type of wind shirt are less breathable and more water resistant shells made from EPIC or Totem such GoLite Helios, Patagonia Krushell, Wildthings EPIC windshirt, etc. These shells are quite effective in colder weather, often more durable than the ultra-light shirts, but in most cases I think the lighter and more breathable wind shirts are appropriate. Third, there are lined wind shirts such as the Marmot DriClime. Finally there light-weight stretch woven soft shells like the Cloudveil Prospector or the Montbell Stretch Windshirt. Some people I know use the Rainshield O2 jacket as both a wind and rain shell because it is very light and reasonably breathable. I have found the Rainshield jacket to be too fragile and ill-fitting when compared to a basic windshell so I am willing to carry the extra 3oz.
Low Cost: The cheapest solution is a cheap nylon windbreak found at Target, Walmart, etc. Treat with DWR after-market product.
Insulation Layer Torso
Montbell
UL Thermawrap Vest
Rational: An insulation layer is designed to keep you warm, but make sure you don't overheated. This layer should be highly breathable. When you are engaged in aerobic activities, you generate a lot of heat and require much less insulation than if you are sedentary. My experience is that days which have an extended period of aerobic activity (say backpacking for >10 miles while gaining a fair amount of elevation) tends to reduce the amount of insulation I need even after my activities have ended provided I had had enough to eat and drink. Below is a table from Hal Weiss's Secrets of Warmth. Hal indicated that the US Army did a series of tests which determined recommended insulation (expressing in terms of inches of loft) for various effective temp (which include wind chill):
Effective Temp Sleeping Light Work Heavy Work
+40F 1.5" 0.8" 0.2"
+20F 2.0" 1.0" 0.27"
0F 2.5" 1.3" 0.35"
-20F 3.0" 1.6" 0.40"
-40F 3.5" 1.9" 0.48"
-50F 4.0" 2.1" 0.52"
My Choice: On most trips I carry Montbell Thermawrap Vest. This vest is surprisingly warm (better than a 200 weight fleece), weights just 5oz, continues to provide insulation even if it gets wet (once the water is squeezed out), is extreme light, very compressible, and makes a good pillow. I like the freedom of movement a vest provides. When just sitting around I found the combination of a a base layer, wind shell, warm hat, and this vest keeps be comfortable down to 25F, below that my shoulders and arms start to chill a bit. If I expect the temperature to be consistently below freezing, I also take a Montbell Thermawrap UL Jacket which I typically layer over the vest which will keep me comfortable when inactive to around 0F. I need less insulation when I am active. When the temperature is >35F I don't wear an insulation layer, I just wear a base layer and maybe a light shell (depending on conditions). In colder conditions I will wear either the Vest or UL Jacket.
Options: Various weight fleece (typically 100, 200 or 300 weight) have been the most commonly used insulation layer for the last twenty years. Reasons to use fleece include: durability, warmth, breathability, and fleece dries very quickly if it gets wet. If you want a fleece which holds up for many years I would suggest looking at high quality fleece like those made by Mountain Hardware, Patagonia, Montbell. Arc'Teryx or semi custom jackets from Beyond Fleece. I think Polartec Thermal Pro High Loft (which first appeared in the Patagonia R2/R3) is the nicest fleece material in terms of comfort and insulation / weight since it's weight is similar to a 200wt fleece, but it's warmer than most classic 300wt fleece. WindPro is one of the few forms of fleece that is somewhat wind resistant without being overkill. WindStopper and Windbloc fleece are discussed as soft shell (I don't like them). Another approach is to use a jacket which uses a high loft insulation such as down, Polarguard or Primaloft. High loft jackets tend to be lighter and pack smaller than comparable fleece. They break the wind better than traditional fleece, but don't breath quite as well. See BPL's High Loft Review for more info. You might also find this discussion thread about high loft materials CO values useful. For an insulation layer down to freezing I would normally recommend a high loft vest. In increasing warmth Montbell Thermawrap Vest (lightest most minimalist), MEC Northern Lite 2 Vest (best value), or the Patagonia Micro Puff Vest. For colder conditions I would suggest a jacket (in increasing warmth) Montbell Thermawrap Jacket (lightest), MEC Northern Lite Pullover (best value), BMW Cocoon (best weight/warmth but fragile), Wild Things Primaloft Sweater, or Patagonia Micro Puffball Pullover (great weight/warmth ratio). There are a number of other high loft jackets (typically insulated with Primaloft) which are not quite as light weight such as the REI Gossamer, North Face Redpoint, and Mountain Hardware Compressor. For harsh conditions I would recommend a hooded jacket with a durable shell like the Patagonia DAS Parka, OR Synchro Hoody, Integral Designs Dolomitti Jacket, North Face Optimus Jacket. Another option is getting a down garment. I used to use a Patagonia Micro Puff pullover rather than the Montbell Thermwrap UL Jacket. I was comfy sitting around wearing the Micro Puff with a medium weight base and warm hat when it was 15 F. When I am active I have to leave the Micro Puff partially unzipped until is it below -5F. I switched to the Montbell Thermwrap Jacket because it wasn't as warm as the Micro Puff. For amazingly light, compressible and warm down vests or jackets take a look at Western Mountaineering, Montbell, Nunatak, and Feathered Friends. While I have been very happy with a down sleeping bag, I typically don't use down as my primary insulation layer because in the conditions I normally face I am more likely to get my clothing wet. In a recent experiment done by BackpackingLight.com folks, it seem that even when you soak light down garments such as the Western Mountaineering Flash Vest, that in less than an hour the Flash vest will have more loft than any synthetic vest which weights approx the same as the Flash when dry. In extreme cold down wins hands down provided you wear a vapor barrier. Gore Airvantage clothing is interesting because it lets you vary insulation by blowing-up / letting air out of the garment, but looks to be very heav, I would pass on it. Another emerging solution is micro heaters (or coolers) being developed by companies like Aspen Systems primarily for military applications. I thing there is a lot of development left before these sorts of systems would be good for backpacking trips. Finally, there are materials like aerogel which often incredible insulation for a given weight. Time will tell if this can be made sufficiently durable and affordable to be useful.
Low Cost: You most likely already have a fleece. If not, it is possible to buy a 200 weight fleece at discount stores for $10-20 which will be adequate for cool-moderate temperatures. For colder weather add a good wool sweater, or you could make a thru-hiker Kinsman Pullover or Kennebec Pullover for $54.
Rain Gear Torso
BPL Drop Stoppers
Rational: The purpose of the shell is to protect you from environmental conditions: rain, sleet, snow, etc. Finding the right rain gear is quite challenging because staying dry and comfortable requires managing external moisture from rain, sleet, and snow as well as managing internally generated moisture. Most rain gear is not only waterproof, but is also windproof and has some insulating characteristics. In warmer weather this is a serious problem because the wearer of rain gear will often over heat, start sweating, and then find themselves almost as damp as if they were walking around in the rain without protection. Patagonia wrote a nice article entitled What is Percent of Naked? which describes an interesting way to characterize shells which captures both wind permeability and water vapor transmission. I have found the Breathability Graphs and Temperature Dependent Water Vapor Diffusion from Soldier Systems Center, water vapour permeability of fabrics from U of Kansas and Waterproof Breathable Fabric Technologies at BPL to be very helpful in understanding the characteristics of various materials used in rain shells. Roger Caffin from down under has written a nice Rainwear FAQ.
My Choice: There is nothing which satisfies me 100% of the time. If the temperature is more than 75F I just get wet. On most trips I will take a BPL Drop Stopper Jacket (6 oz) because it's light, waterproof, has good breathability, seems to provide less insulation any other waterproof jacket. If I need a more durable jacket I take a Montbell Peak Jacket. If I was facing seriously abrasive conditions (say if I was still climbing) I would need a shell which is more durable the than the Peak.
Options: There is a wide variety of strategies used by people in the attempt to stay comfortable and dry in the face of variable conditions.
eVENT: Is the most breathable waterproof material on the market today. It is reasonably durable, moderately light, and expensive. For more about eVENT check out OUTDOORmagic on eVENT and look at the above articles about breathability. eVENT jackets include Integral Designs eVENT Jacket (9.5oz, no venting, full zip, short, kind of baggy $210), Montane Air Jacket (<10oz, no venting, full zip, trim fit, $339!), Showerpass (biking, no hood with pitzips), Rab, Craighoppers, WildThings, 66? North, Pearl Izumi, and Helly Hansen make eVENT jackets. The cheapest way to get an eVENT jacket today is check out a Pearl Izumi outlet store.. they will sometimes have one of their eVENT jackets on special. Don't get the Pearl Izumi Forte or Allegro Jackets which were made in 2001 because the stretch panels leak! I wish someone would make a parka length (think men's dress sport coat), light-weight (<12oz), eVENT shell with large mesh backed torso pockets, pitzips, and a roll-away hood with a decent brim. Alas, no one is doing this.
Microporous polypropylene WPB nonwoven fabric (Propore): Strickly speaking Propore is a specific formulation... but I going to use it as a generic term in this paragraph to save space. Propore is the cheapest water proof breathable material available today. In it's lightest form it is also more breathable than any material except for eVENT. I have been more comfortable wearing a light Propore jacket in warm weather than an eVENT shell because Propore is less insulating making it less likely that I overheat. The first rain suit I discovered using the material was the Rain Shield O2 (which I believe uses the lightest weight Propore manufactured). You can get a complete BPL Drop Stoppers Rain Suit (jacket and pants, 10oz) for $15! Other options are DriDucks sold as the GossamerGear Micropore Rainsuit, and the slightly heavier, more durable, more expensive Frogg Toggs. The down sides of Propore garments? First, the fabric is very flimsy. They are not appropriate for even moderately abrasive conditions: climbing and off-trail travel is right out, and don't use them if you don't baby your gear. My experience is that the lighter propore pants don't survive a weekend even when I am on trail. My rainshield o2 jacket was looking pretty worn after a year of use (sections held together with duct tape), and after three years it had to be replaced (this time with dropstoppers). Another issue with Propore rain gear is that the cut tends to be awful and the seams are uncomfortable if against bare skin.
Gore-Tex: For the last twenty years, Gore-Tex Waterproof/Breathable (WPB) rain gear has been successfully marketed as the gold standard for outdoor activities in the USA. In theory Gore-Tex keeps the rain off you, but "breaths" so your perspiration escapes. Alas, if you are engaged in aerobic actives, you will find that Gore-Tex does not breath enough and you will likely get soaked in sweat. Gore PacLite is the most breathable and lightest weight Gore-Tex material. It seem to buffer moisture well, so if you engage in brief aerobic activities, you are likely not to notice you have briefly overwhelmed PacLite's ability to move moisture. Gore-Tex XCR is more durable and waterproof than PacLite and almost as breathable. I can't imagine purchasing a Gore-Tex Classic jacket these days since there are a number of PU based jackets which are as breathable and less expensive. If you want genuine Gore rain jacket I would suggest the Montbell Torrent Flier, OR Celestial Parka (side rather than pit zips), GoLite Phantom Jacket, Mountain Hardware Swift Jacket, or ArcTeryx Theta Jacket. If you really want to save weight at the expense of venting options you could give the GoLite Rage or the OR Zealot Jacket a try which are ~7oz.
PU Coated Jackets: Some versions of Toray's Entrant should be approaching the performance eVENT. I believe the Montbell Peak Jacket (<11oz, full zip, pitzips, pockets, nearly suit coat length, $198) is based on one of the new forms of Entrant. I have found that the Peak Jacket with pitzips open to be more comfortable and breathable than eVENT jackets without pitzips. Most PU coated jackets are not as breathable as Gore-Tex and can be easily overwhelmed by aerobic actives. I think that the Marmot PreClip is one of the best values when you factor price (<$100), design (includes features such as as pit zips and a good hood), quality (like fully taped seams), and durability, and reasonably light weight (~12 oz). The North Face Diad also looks pretty good thought I would want the ventilation zippers to be a bit longer. The Red Ledge Thunderlight.is one of the better values providing a reasonable durable rain jacket with pitzips but only moderate breathability. If you are really trying to save weight (at the expense of breathability and venting options) there are a number of sub 8oz rain jackets including the Montane HydraLite, Patagonia Specter Pullover, and the amazing 4.3oz Sierra Designs Isotope jacket (2007 edition) which is waterproof but only marginally breathable.
Poncho: can have good ventilation (in theory), are light weight, and can do triple duty: rain gear, pack cover and shelter. While the multiple use name of a poncho is attractive, I have never been happy using one. My personal experience is that my chest get soaked in sweat and condensation and my sides get damp. Disadvantages of using a poncho are that many people find them ineffective in high winds, awkward when bushwhacking and impossible to use when climbing. Light-weight ponchos include the Bozman MW Poncho/Tarp, Mountain Laurel Designs SuperPoncho, ID Sil Poncho, and the plans for the Robinson Poncho.
Non-Breathable Waterproof Jackets: I suppose these are cheap, durable, can be very light. I would never use a non breathable jacket, but some people do. If you are engaged in aerobic activities while wearing a non breathable jacket, whatever is under the jacket will get soaked in sweat. Many options which are fairly cheap. One of the lightest options would be the Dancing Light Gear Gram Weenie Rain/Vapor Barrier Jacket made from sil-nylon. The The Packa combines a poncho with sleeves and a zipper.
Umbrella: Some people like to use water resistant jackets + umbrellas. Certainly very good ventilation :-). Challenges are that strong winds cause problems. Some people have found ways to mount an umbrella on their packs so their hands are free. I haven't tried using an umbrella on many trips. Maybe I should give it one more try.
Britsh/Softshell Techinque: See my softshell section for more information about this approach. Sometimes people will combine a softshell with a poncho or umbrella.
Keela Dual Protection: Somewhat similar to the British soft shell approach. This is heavier / more insulating that most other systems. Designed to keep water from getting in, as well as discouraging perspiration to condense on the inside of the jacket. This material would be best in heavy rain in near freezing conditions. I have no personal experience with this material.
Low Cost: The cheapest rain gear for short periods of rain are those cheap ($1, 2oz) plastic emergency ponchos or a plastic garbage bag... don't laugh, I have found them very useful a number of times. You can also find more durable ponchos made from thin PVC for around $8 at home depot or most outdoor stores. The cheapest water proof breathable option I know of are BPL Drop Stoppers Rain Suit which are $15 for jacket and pants. If you want a durable jacket with so/so breathability and pitzips check out the Red Ledge Thunderlight.
Crossing Layers/Soft Shells
Rational: There are some garments which bridge across the traditional layered model. Soft shells are designed to resist incidental weather while at the same time being highly breathable. The theory goes that most outing don't face serious deluges. Much more common is light drizzle or snow and wind. In these conditions a waterproof breathable shell is overkill, and don't breath well enough to mitigate significant internal condensation due to sweat. Soft shells are made from durable water resistant (DWR) fabrics which sheds water very well while still being highly breathable. Light rain and snow rolls right off the shell. Water will soak through a soft shell during an extended shower. The water that does soak through will be burned off by your body heat (e.g. this works for high aerobic activities, it won't work if you are just sitting around in the rain).
My Choice: I think soft shells are a 90% solution for day activities. In most cases they will be the most comfortable shell you can wear, but in heavy storms they can't compare to something which is truly waterproof. I would also note that DWR performance seems to fall off more quickly that the manufacturers indicate. I typically don't take a soft shell on three season backpacking trips because they tend to weight more than a traditional layered clothing systems without given sufficient protection against severe storms. I have enjoyed using a Marmot ATV jacket made from Schoeller Dryskin for high energy activities in the winter, though I normally use a mid-weight base layer and a windshirt. For day activities around town I often use a REI Pyrn Jacket or a Montbell Light Shell which have similar performance characteristics, but very different styles.
Options: There are a lot of soft shells on the market today. Climbing Online had a good summary of a number of current softshells and there was a nice article about choosing a fall jacket in the Seattle Times. A summary of my experiences listing material and the shells I have had personal experience with. Temp range is my comfort range when engaged in aerobic activities going from lightest to heaviest:
Montbell Stretch Ballistic Fabric used in the Montbell Stretch Wind Jacket seems to be the lightest weight stretch woven jacket on the market. I have no experience with it (someone want to send me one to try out :-). Looks like it might be light enough to replace my unlined wind shirt. This might be a really great windshell in cold weather because I would bet you will have less convection cooling because of the tight fit.
Inertia (Cloudveil Prospector) So far seems like a good action shirt when I am moving fast (replacing wind shirt / base layer) in still or light wind conditions between 35-55F, and usable in warmer weather. Wind resistances seems slightly better that as my supplex shirt. The lack of insulation and wind permeability helps prevent overheating is moderate weather. If the wind is blowing hard wouldn't use it below around 40F because I would be too chilled. I have been pretty impressed with water resistance for such a light shell. Light drizzle rolls right off. Starts leaking in a real rain after 15-30 minutes. More water resistant and durable is better than my unlined windshirt. [Appropriate for moderate spring, alpine summer and fall conditions]
??? used in the ArcTeryx Squamish Windshell. 5-6oz windshell which has some stretch.
Schoeller Dynamic (Cloudveil Veiled Peak & Arc'Teryx Alpha Comp Hybrid) is decent in cool weather when facing abrasive conditions... but for general use, I find that the optimal comfort range is smaller than other soft shells. Dynamic started leaking in less than 10 minutes during a hard rain storm. I overheat in conditions that would be OK in an unlined wind shirt, and find myself feeling chilled at approx the same time as a wind shirt. On the other hand, Dynamic is significant more durable in abrasive conditions that most materials. The Alpha Comp is a beautiful jacket which is a bit more protective thanks to the Gore-Tex XCR yoke and outer arms. [Spring skiing over light insulation or heavy base, and moderate weather climbing]
Patagonia ? (Ready Mix, Figure 4) I haven't used any of these jackets but they seem to provide a bit more insulation than Inertia while being significantly more wind and water resistant. I have heard reports that it is less breathable that Inertia and Pertex Equilibrium. [Year round use if used with insulation or heavy base in colder weather]
Pertex Equilibrium (REI Pyrn Jacket) More wind resistant than Inertia, maybe a bit less water resistant than Inertia, a bit less stretchy than Inertia and is not quite as soft against the skin. In cool weather is likely to be a better choice than Inertia, but in warmer weather Inertia fairs better thanks to higher air permeability. I don't take my Pyrn jacket backpacking because it doesn't fit well into my layering system... but it is one of my favorite jackets for around the town in the SF bay area during our "winter". [Appropriate for spring and fall conditions, high output aerobic activity in the winter. The Rab V-trail looks really nice.]
Schoeller Dryskin (Marmot ATV) is ideal when it was between 0-30F over a medium base layer so long as I wasn't facing really serious winds. This material is quite comfortable in warmer temp if you aren't active... I think it might have the widest comfort range of any shell I have used. I have been dry after being out for multiple hours in a moderate rain storm. Wicks and breaths really well. One down side is that it will absorb water over time. If you want a Dryskin jacket I would first look at BeyondFleece's Cold Play Jacket. [Great for for spring and fall, high output winter activities].
Nextec EPIC (Patagonia Essenshell) is a good wind shell in cold to cool weather. Layered over a wicking base layer (with light insulation in colder situations) is where EPIC shines. EPIC doesn't absorb much what even if it gets soaked, so it dries more quickly than most soft shells. I found that it resists light sprinkle for several hours, leaks after around an hour in a moderate rain storm, and wets out in around 15 minutes in a real storm. [Good as wind shirt over a light base layer when the temp is <45 F.]
PowerShield Lightweight (REI Mistral II) I have not used the lightest weight version of PowerShield, but it seems like a really nice material. It's a bit warmer and more protective than Equilibrium but lighter than most other soft shell materials. Does not seem to absorb much water. The GoLite Momentum looks nice. [Cool Spring or Fall, Maybe winter for high output aerobic activities?]
PowerShield (Arc'Teryx MX) is very wind resistant and quite weatherproof, but not as breathable as some soft shells. I have found it appropriate for -10F to 20F type temps over a medium-heavy weight base layer when moderately active. [Good for winter skiing, climbing, etc]
Schoeller WB400 is one of the heavier soft shells. More protective than most soft shells including PowerShield, as well as being heavier and stiffer. Significantly less breathable than something like Dryskin. I have no personal experience with WB400 other than in gloves. [Cold weather conditions]
Nylon/Fleece Wind Shirt. Some people have found using jackets which are a nylon shell bonded to a light-weight fleece highly versatile because they can be worn as a base layer, an insulation layer, a wind shell, or for rain protection. Examples of these include the beloved Marmot DriClime Windshirt (the gold standard in the US, my daughter lives in hers), Patagonia Stretch Zephur (I don't like much), Montbell Light Shell (lightest and least insulating of the bunch), Paramo Mountain Shirt, and Buffalo Teclite Activity Shirt. See Michael's Ultralight Clothing (original) for a more detailed description of this strategy. I know a number of people who seem to be comfortable wearing a base + a DriClim Windshirt when the temperature is between 20-55F.
There are a number of other soft shell materials I don't have any personal experience with. Zyflex (cool, light-drizzle) sounds very promising from this glowing review and significantly cheaper ($19) than any other product in this category. Other promising materials include Sporthill SP3 (cold-cool, drizzle) and Gore N2S (moderate weather, light drizzle). Swix seems to make some nice soft-shell-ish jackets designed for Nordic skiing. I have little experience with WindStopper and WindPro, but my limited experience, as well as comments from people I trust seems to find these fleece + membrane not breathable enough and too warm when active, and not warm enough when sitting around. An interesting idea which should be shipping in the next year is Versalayer, a soft shell with a retractable micro fleece inside.
Low Cost: Find an old, heavy weight wool shirt at a thrift store. This was the traditional NOLS approach which is fairly effective. I have no experience with Zyflex Thermal Shirt, but fans claim it's great and a very reasonable $19. While not "cheap" Sporthill is cheaper than most other stretch-woven soft shells.
Legs
Cloudveil
Spinner Pants
Rational: I could have separate sections describing possible layering for legs the way I did for the torso. I am not going to do that because it would be overkill. My experience is finding effective clothing for legs is much easier than the torso. Why? Moisture management isn't as important for legs because legs sweat less and are more resistant to cold. Furthermore, in most activities (other than climbing) your legs tend to be generating more heat than your arms because you are using your legs to propel yourself. Legs also tend to be more sheltered from rain than your upper torso. All these factors means that the comfort range of pants will tend to be wider than clothing for your torso. The one challenge presented by legs is that they tend to get abraded more than your torso, so pants generally need to be more durable for an equivalent lifetime. For some people, reducing chaffing is very important. Wetness + friction = pain.
My Choices: I typically wear a pair of Cloudveil Spinner Pants which are made out of Inertia Plus, a light weight softshell material. These are similar to the Cloudveil Peak pants except they have zip-off legs. They provide protection from the sun and most biting bugs. They dry quickly so I don't have to worry about carrying a second pair of pants. In hot weather I can turn them into shorts or if I need to protect my lower legs, I can at least ventilated them around the knees by partially opening the zipper. I have been comfortable wearing this pants down to around 30F. Below that I can put my rain pants over them, or a light weight base under than and be comfortable down to 0F. When I am expecting the entire trip to be cold I wear a pair of Marmot ATV pants which are made with Schoeller Dryskin fabric. These pants are comfortable when it was 15 F (skiing, sitting on ski lift, hiking) and still acceptably comfortable when it was 45 F and I was engaged in demanding activities. They were even comfortable when I was inactive in 70 F (eating lunch inside a lodge). I tried going without rain pants, but have had enough experiences that convinced me that I hate hiking in wet pants. If it's >50F I hiking in shorts and let my legs get wet. In colder weather I bring a pair of Montbell rain pants made from PacLite. I wear a pair of Ex Officio box briefs which as a size small (sort of like Under Armor Compression Shorts). They really help reduce chafing for me. If I expect they nights are going to be less than 35F a bring a pair of light weight pair of Patagonia Capilene tights to sleep in, which can also be worn during the day if it is surprisingly cold.
Options: Convertible supplex nylon pants such as ExOfficio Convertible Explorer have become quiet popular in some circles since they can worn as pants when it is cool and then convert to shorts when it warms up. They dry quickly, provide protection from biting bugs, and are durable. I still use a pair Ex Officio convertible pants that has been worn at least once a week, on trips several days in a rowsince 1996. The most recent version of these pants have been replaced by a Stretch version which is heavier and slower drying. Most outdoor clothing manufacturers make supplex pants. The primary difference is pocket configuration and fit. Other people like to hike in shorts no matter what the temperature is. In cool weather they use a light base layer under their shorts, and maybe add wind pants when it's cold. The only down side of wearing shorts is than if you have a large swing of conditions, removing or adding the base layer under the shorts requires removing the shorts. "Soft shell" have been gaining popularity since they are comfortable over a wide range of conditions and tend to be made from durable materials. For a summary of soft shell pants, take a look a BPL's Softshell Pants Review. For cool weather you might check out the Cloudveil Peak Pants made from Inertia Plus. These are similar to the Cloudveil Rodeo Pant (my review) which I used for several seasons. I found Inertia to be more weather resistant and more comfortable against the skin (less chaffing) than Supplex. The only down side is that they are not as durable as supplex and more expensive. GoLite Propel pants also sound good for cool-cold conditions: they are a bit warmer than the Rodeo pants because they block with wind more completely, as well as being more water resistant. In cool weather I tried a pair of ultra-light tights such as those sold by Sahalie with a light pair of wind pants like the Montane Featherlite pants... but found I prefer my Cloudveil Rodeo pants. MEC Ferrata Tights are very nice winter pants for a very reasonable price (given their performance). Something to keep in mind is that you want to minimize chafing. One of the most effective solutions to minimize friction against the skin is to wear tight fitting boxer-briefs, biking shorts, or tights which are made from nylon or polyester with lycra. A number of people I know really like Under Armor compression shorts. Some people apply products like Glide as a preventative measure. I haven't found this to be only moderately effective, and a pain to use, especially on trips which are more than a day or two. Wearing light, open, well breathing pants/shorts helps minimize accumulated moisture. There are some new products which are base layers with stretch sections designs to compress and support your muscles to enhance performance. I have no experience with theses, but they have gotten some good reviews. As for rain pants, there are a variety of theories. Some people believe that legs work hard enough that rain shell for legs is typically not needed: Nylon pants + base layer will be just fine. I tried this for awhile but concluded that I am not comfortable doing this, I hate having soggy legs. Something I haven't tried but sounds promising is a rain skirt. The idea is that you are protected from the rain coming down, but still have a lot of ventilation.
Low Cost: Nylon warm-up pant or running shorts from Target, Walmart, etc.
Headwear
Rational: People use hats to protect themselves from sun, rain, and cold. Up to 55% of body heat exits through the head & neck. This means that in cold weather having a hat, or better yet a hood, plays a significant role in keeping you warm. In hot weather a hat had better provide optimal ventilation to help you stay cooling.
My Choices:
I am very fair skinned... so I have to be very careful about getting sunburned. I always use a hat with a full brim to protect my neck and ears, or in colder weather a hat which directly covers most of my exposed skin with a brim to keep sun off my face. Most of the year I use a Dorman-Pacific hat made from a very light weight supplex weave which breaths well, gives good sun protection, keeps summer showers off my glasses, and dries quickly. This hat as an oval shaped foam brim with a plastic stiffener running around the outside of the brim to keep it from flapping in the wind. I carry a shaped piece of plastic which turn this into a rain hat. When it is hot I use a Sunday Afternoon Adventure Hat. Yeah, this is a very geeky looking hat, but the oversize brim and veil provide highly effective protection from the sun for both face and neck, while the mesh side panels helps keep your head cool. In moderate weather typically wear OR Seattle Sombrero, a Tilley LT5 Hat, or a Cloudveil Four Shadows Beenie. In colder weather I typically use a OR Fall Line Hat (similar to Hat for all Seasons) which is fairly warm, very storm resistant, has a baseball style brim which helps shade my eyes, and flaps which can cover the ears or be flipped up in milder conditions. I always bring a Buff neck gaiter/hat for some extra warmth. In extreme cold I layer a GoLite Snow Cap over whatever I am wearing.
Options: Hat's seem to be one of the more "personal" pieces of gear. More than many items, people seem to care about the style of their hat. There are a huge number of options with a wide variety of styles, colors, materials, etc. Many people use baseball caps to keep their hair out of the way, things out of their hair, and shading for their eyes. I don't wear baseball caps because they don't provide adequate sun protection. There are a number of hats made for the summer which have veils to protect ears are neck from the sun. These hats provide very effective sun protections but will block what could be cooling breezes. Brims for hats are sometimes fabric (like bucket hats), light foam, stiff foam/plastic, or sometimes flexible foam + edge stiffener. I have found that in moderate to high winds brims made from fabric or very light / flexible foam are not very effective. In the summer I would recommend looking at hats which have a full brim made from a light weight supplex (or other woven nylon) material. These will dry quickly if it rains and breath very well. Some people wear hats such as the LT line of Tilley hats in warm weather, but I have found the materials used in the LT not breathable enough for the summer. My head is soaked in sweat in a matter of minutes. In moderate weather having a hat which is wind resistant can be a big aid to regulate your body temperature. In cold weather you will want a hat which keeps you warm. Winter hats can be caps (typically wool, fleece, or soft shell), hunter style (typically shelled fleece), or balaclavas (normal fleece, windstopping fleece, high loft). I typically find a balaclava overkill until it is below 20F and windy. Don't underestimate how much a neck gaiter (or scarf) can help you stay warm. In hot weather a cotton bandana, or better yet, a "tie" filled with poly-crystals such as those made by Cobber and Kooltie can help keep you cool.
Low Cost: Get a free hat.
Handwear
Rational: Like hats, hardware seem to be one of the more "personal" pieces of gear. Unlike "hats", fit rather than style seems to drive most people's decision making. The fit of handware is much more important than say, a jacket. Less than 1 cm of extra length in the fingers can be the difference between a glove that is highly functional and a glove that gets in the way is makes it difficult to to make the grabs necessary. People use handware to protect their hands from abrasion, cold, rain, and sun. There is often a trade-off between "feel" and "protection". Typically the more protective handware is, the less "feel" they provide.
My Choices: My hands tend to stay warm, so unless it is quite cold, or very cool and raining I don't wear handware unless I need protection from abrasive conditions. The one exception is that I tend to wear gloves in my sleeping bag. I am very "touch" oriented, so I don't like handware which makes it hard for me to "feel" my environment. This means that I tend to use gloves rather than mittens, and I favor thin, flexible gloves, to gloves which are thick or stiff. In cold weather I tend to use Pearl Izumi Encore Glove which are full finger cycling glove made with a windproof eVENT membrane. These gloves aren't waterproof, but they are water resistant and dry quickly. In colder weather I typically use the lightly lined Mountain Hardware Tempest SL Gloves which have grippy palm/fingers, have a good size gauntlet, give me good feel, and are very light. When I was climbing in cold weather I liked Black Diamond Dry Tool gloves.
Options: The first set of options are how the handware is structured. From best "feel" to most protective are fingerless gloves which can keep the core of your hand warm while giving full dexterity to fingers, fingerless gloves with a mitten flap that can be overlaid when you don't need to be using your fingers, gloves, lobster claw gloves, and mittens. The second set of options is what materials are used on the palm and the fingers: how durable and how "grippy". The most grippy materials tend to be specially designed synthetic materials. Leather is reasonably grippy and long lasting. Plain fabric is often slippery and not very durable. The third issue is how waterproof which ranges from water absorbing, to water resistant, to fully waterproof. The forth issue you should consider is how quickly the handware will dry. Handware which doesn't have absorbent padding will dry more quickly. Handware which separates insulation from the protective outer shell also has an advantage when it comes to drying out your hands. Finally, there is the question of insulation. Primaloft and down are commonly used in warmer handware because it is warm for it's weight, while style providing good feel because the insulation will compress when pressed. The compressibility gives good feel, but it means that the compressed area isn't as protected from the cold. So if you are going to be holding onto things for an extended period of time (say climbing with ice tools), then you want the insulation to be something that won't compress like fleece or thermolite. Some handware uses hybrid insulation... fleece on the palm and fingers, and primaloft across the back of the hand. Most gloves fall into the following groupings:
Base/liner gloves: made from a wicking material like PowerDry or wool. These are very thin gloves which can boast the insulation of other gloves, or be worn stand-alone in moderate weather. They provide little or not protection from wind or water.
Unlined shell gloves: very hard to find these days which is a shame. For ultralight backpackers, the ultimate form of this was the OR Rain Mittens. These were very simple: unlined, no grippy stuff on the palms, no big gauntlet (wrist was a bit tight), just 1oz. The closet thing made today are the slightly fancier Trek Mates PacLite Mittens or the heavier REI Taped Mittens. Hopefully in the spring of 2006 there will be a worth successor, the Bozeman Mountain Works Rain Mittens.
Lined shell gloves: which have a water resistant shell and a light liner. These gloves often use what is waterproof breathable materials in the shell, but don't seal the seams. As a result they are moderately protective in wet conditions, but after some time, moisture will start seeping in. These gloves tend to be very good feel and dexterity. The MH Tempest SL and the REI Minimalist are examples of this type of glove.
Modular Gloves/Mittens: OR is the best known maker of modular handware. Typically these will have extra long gauntlets for maximum protection & good sealing, extra durable shells made from waterproof breathable materials which are fully sealed, very grippy palms, and removable insulation. Often, there will be several options for insulation.
Softshell Gloves: A number of companies are making light gloves made from softshell materials like PowerShield. These are fairly protective from the elements, durable with abrasive conditions, while still providing very good feel.
Heavy Fleece / Woold Gloves/Mittens: Provides good insulation. I typically don't use them because when it is cold enough that I want this sort of insulation, I am typically also needing protection from moisture because I am in snow
Insulated, Shelled Gloves/Mittens: The most common "ski" gloves made. They typically are made with a waterproof breathable shell, and use either fleece or primaloft for insulation. Alas, most aren't fully sealed, so after a full day in the snow they will be wet on the inside and hard to dry out.
Footwear
Make sure that you are bringing footwear which is comfortable and appropriate for your chosen activities. Nothing will spoil your outdoor adventure more quickly than wearing uncomfortable footwear! Shoes are extremely personal. Just because a shoe is well regard doesn't mean that it will be good for you. There is no substitute from trying on a pair of shoes/boots, and then wearing them for an extended period of time. Even if your footwear doesn't need to be broken in, you should spend significant time wearing them before you take them on a journey. Backpacker has a nice article on understanding feet and footwear. There is also a good posting to the forum about Fitting Backpacking Boots. You might try to find a local store that has been trained in the FitSystem by Phil Oren. Keep in mind that for every 1 lb of footwear, it's like carrying an extra 6.4 lb of weight on your back. [Legg SJ, Mahanty A. Energy cost of backpacking in heavy boots. Ergonomics.1986 Mar;29(3):433-8.] I have found that Zappos is a good source for hard to find shoes.
Shoes -vs- Boots
Historically people wore heavy weight boots for backpacking, trekking, etc. Your feet need to be protected, and what could do a better job that a heavy boot which will help prevent sprained ankles and give excellent support? Wrong. Most boots don't give good ankle support. The sides of the boot are flexible. Only extremely stiff boots like the modern, hard plastic telemark ski boots actually provide good ankle support. What actually helps protect your ankle in good quality hiking boots are a high quality heel cup and a well formed foot bed. Guess what? Good running shoes have good heel cups and supportive foot beds as well. In other words, your ankles will be as well protected with a trail runner as with most hiking boots. So how do boots and trail runners compare:
Area Trail Runner Heavy Duty Hiking Boot
Shoe Weight 28oz 70oz
Equiv work for this Weight on Back 11.2 lbs 28 lbs
Cost $75 $200
Service 750 miles 4000 miles (guess)
Cost/Mile 10 cents 5 cents
Break In Period Practically None Often 100 miles
Foot Protection Moderate to Excellent Excellent
Moisture Management Most are fairly breathable. Your feet will get wet. They will also dry in a few hours of hiking. Gore-Tex trail runners are available. Most are highly water resistant or waterproof. If they do get wet they stay wet for a long time. Feet tend to be slightly damp because when they are sweating, it is hard for the moisture to escape.
Insulation Typically no insulation on top. Many models have some amount of mesh which helps keep feel cool and well ventilated. The soles though (often made from light weight foam) tend to be more insulating than heavier boots with dense soles. Tends to be warm on top. Thick leather, and typically thick sock to protect your feet from the boots. In cold weather good. It hot weather you feet sweat and swell which encourages blisters to develop.
For most conditions I would strongly recommend trying trail running shoes. Some good examples of trail running shoes are the many excellent shoes made by Montrail (Hardrock seems to be one of the favorite these days), New Balance 80x, Salomon XA*, the MizunoWave Ascend, and runners by Inov-8. By wearing lighter footwear you are more agile, making it easier to place you feet were you want them to go and you will have better tactile feedback which allows you to recover in the cases that you were about to come down wrong. Better yet, you will find that trips seem easier when wearing lighter footwear. Some people have found that technical water shoes or supportive sandals can also work well. Trail runners or sandals can be combined with waterproof breathable socks like Sealskins in colder, wetter conditions. If you want heavy duty hiking boots I would recommend checking out full leather boots with a Norwegian welt made in Europe ideally by Italian companies like Scarpa.
I have a terrible time finding shoes which fit me because I have a narrow heel, but need a wide toe box to give room for my misshaped toes. I often try every shoe I can find in local stores without finding a single pair that are comfortable. When I find a shoe that works for me I buy multiple pairs because I don't know the next time I will find a shoe that will fit well, and my experience is that manufacturers change designs on a regular basis. Shoes which I have found to be exceptional include:
Inov-8 310 Flyroc: Light (24 ounces for a pair of size 10.5 / 44). No motion support but great heel cup, great sole, great trail feel, super flexible, adequate shock protection for heel, minimalist padding, very breathable mesh uppers.
New Balance 801-803 were the first trail runners I found were comfortable and truly light weight (28oz for size 10.5 medium). Alas, I am on my last pair of 803s, and I think that NB broke the 80x line with the 805-807. NB might have figured out their error, sounds like the original design (the 801). The 808 don't work for me.
Lowa Tempest Low, a light weight hiking shoes. Arguably the most comfortable shoes I have found. They give excellent support and are comfortable enough that I don't need to carry camp shoes to give my feet a break at the end of the day. These are not the lightest shoes in the world, and they dry slowly. The Tempest2 seems to have a new sole design which is suppose to fit most people better... but I know many hard to fit people love loved the Tempest would don't like the Tempest2. Oh well. Thankfully, my closet has a number of Tempest Low stashed away.
Vasque medium weight boots. Vasque boots don't seem to be as well made as they once were. My pair has been going strong since 1977?
Dunham Waffle Stomper Terrastryder. Actually haven't tried these yet, but on paper they look pretty good
Other shoes that I though were going to work really well for me, but turned out be just ok:
Solomon XA Comp2: Very breathable, grippy sole. Innovative lacing system (which broke on mine after around 100 miles). Wide toe box. A bit to wide for me.
Teva X-1 Trail Running Shoes: Super light (20 ounces for a pair of size 10.5). Reasonably stiff sole. Good traction in mixed conditions, though the sole isn't as aggressive as the Flyroc. Large mesh side panels and materials that don't suck up a lot of water make these good shoes for repeated stream crossings since they dry pretty quickly. Even though these shoes are lighter than the Flyroc, my feet feel freer in the Flyroc and the Flyroc seems to breath better. I found that the back of the Teva was a bit too stiff and was at the wrong angle, resulting in blisters on the back of my ankle.
Sandals, Watershoes, and Adventure Racing Shoes
There are a number of people who have found sandals and water shoes to be highly effective. They provide excellent ventilation for your feet, and are ideal when you are in wet conditions because they don't hold water against your feet. The downsides of using sandals or water shoes are that your feet get really dirty and some sandals don't protect your toes. Bite Sandals have a toe guard designed to protect your toes. Many people seem to love Chaco Sandals, but they have a very pronounced arch support which hits me in exactly the wrong place. Chaco are also heavier than most trail runners. I sometimes hike in Teva sandals if I am expecting to be fording lots of streams. The Teva X-1, Timberland Delerion Pro, and Solomon Amphibian are well regarded water shoes which also work well for hiking.
Barefoot or Nearly So
There are some people who love to hike barefooted or wearing moccasins. There have been numerous articles about the benefits of going barefoot, a number of which are collected at barefooters.org. Vivobarefoot is making what amounts to a kevar soled moccasins. Expensive in a limited set of sizes. A really different shoe are made by vibramfivefingers whose sole looks like the bottom of our foot, down to a separation between the toes.
Socks
Rational: Appropriate socks help keep your feet at a comfortable temperature and play a large part in preventing blisters. Blisters come from the combination of friction and moisture. You want socks which wick moisture away from you feet and minimize the amount of friction between the sock and your foot which is often best accomplished by using a double sock or two socks.
My Choice:
In moderate to hot weather I really like 3/4 length WrightSock double coolmesh socks. They are very low bulk, wick well, and I have never gotten blisters when wearing them. The only downside is that they wear out faster than any other socks I have worn. In cooler weather I wear WrightSocks Wool/Coolmesh double socks. I just started using a pair of Inov-8 mudsocks. So far, I like them along, but not enough use to know if I prefer them to WrightSocks. In the winter time I switch to Sealz Skin socks with a CoolMax liner when wearing trail runners, or a insulated boots and a vapor barrier sock. In the winter I would use a pair insulated socks like ID's HotSocks inside my tent and/or sleeping bag once I take my boots off.
Options: Conventional wisdom is to wear a heavy wool sock, with an very light weight inner sock made of CoolMax or polypro which is well backed up by data collected by Dr. Murray Hamlet of the Army Cold Weather Research Center. A thin liner sock made of CoolMax, and a thicker sock made of wool&polypro (fuzzy side out) reduced the likelihood of blisters by a factor of three! This is because the slipping is happening between the socks rather than between your foot and the sock. TechSpun sells the socks designed by Hamlet. There are a variety of companies which sell high quality socks including Bridgeport, Dahlgren, Fox River, SmartWool, Thorlo, Wigwam and WrightSock. There are a number of long distance hikers who have found wearing two pairs of nylon dress socks to be effective as well. Keep in mind that there needs to be enough room in your shoe for your feet and the socks you select. Socks which are too thick for your shoes will crowd your feet and result in blisters just as quickly as your feet sliding around. I would strongly recommend trying a variety of different socks and figure out what works best for you. Socks are cheap and will often mean the difference between a miserable blister plagued trip, and one with comfortable feet. X-Socks look interesting but expensive. I have no experience with them. See later sections on dealing with water and cold for additional options.
Cheap: Use a double pair of synthetic dress socks.
Inserts
A number of my friends swear by Superfeet inserts, but they are not for everyone.
Dealing with Water
In general you want to keep your feet dry. The first threat is rain, snow, and slush. The second threat is stream/river crossings. The third is sweat from your feet (feet can dissipate up to 2 cups of water in a day). There are several approaches people use in an attempt to keep feet reasonably dry:
"Waterproof" Boots: One of the most common approaches is the use of waterproof boots. For example, boots with Gore-Tex liners or leather boots withSnowseal or Nikwax to the outside of your footwear. While these approaches will keep external moisture at bay for a time (my experience is for a few days). Alas, while good at keeping external water out, they also tend to hold water in. You feet will stew in the sweat they generated.
Waterproof Socks: I have found waterproof breathable socks such as Rocky Gore-Tex oversocks or SealSkinz tend to be more breathable than "waterproof" boots. When wearing waterproof socks you don't need to worry about your shoes getting wet, because you feet are protected inside the sock.
Quick Dry: A third approach is to use footwear which is highly breathable and quick to dry (sandals or shoes with a lot of light-weight mesh) on the assumption that their feet will get wet, but then will dry quickly. A slight variation of quick dry that is comfortable when wet. Some people have found that using Neoprene socks can keep feet comfortable, even when they are wet. They are effective because the neoprene foam provides effective insulation and doesn't bind when wet. Modest wetness dries overnight, but soaked shoes don't dry overnight. Wet trail runners being worn while active without additional external moisture will mostly dry in a reasonable amount of time thanks to body heat plus the pounding of the feet which drives out moisture. Mostly-dry trail runners can dry overnight. There was some data about time it takes for a variety of different types of trail runners to dry in the open air in the forum posting about Inov-8 & Timberline Delerion (and other fast drying shoes) and a second posting of fast drying shoes. Bottom line is that shoes in a cool location take a long time (>15 hours) to fully dry. On the other hand, shoes can dry significantly in just a couple of hours if you feet are active and you don't have external water sourced to deal with or if the shoes are sitting in bright sunlight. BPL.com did a nice article about water weight gain and loss in lightweight shoes. There are a number of light weight trail runners that will absorb between 15-30% water weight after being soaked, and be down to 4-10% weight gain after a couple of hours of use. So it is possible to soak your shoes in the mid-afternoon, get them mostly dry by the end of the day, and see them fully dry over night.
Extra Shoes: Some people focus on dealing with external moisture when fording streams, walk through the surf, or otherwise immerse feet in water. There are four approaches you can take. The most common approach is to carry a spare pair of footwear such as sport sandals like Tevas which often add 1.2lb to your load.
Dealing with Snow & Cold
In colder weather, people often struggle with their feet getting cold. There are a number of reasons for this
Feet are the furthest point from your core which is generating heat.
Feet are subjected to conductive cooling through the soles of your shoes/boots.
Feet sweat a lot. Many people's shoes hold in all the moisture. Wet moves heat much more quickly than dry.
Tight fitting footwear (often caused by extra thick socks) constrict blood flow.
While there are a number of issues which make keeping feet warm enough challenging, there are a number of approaches which have been proven to be effective.
Hiking Boots & Socks: A classic approach to keeping feet warm are thick wool socks and a water resistant hiking boot. The boots protect against external moisture and the socks provide insulation. A slight variation on this theme are boots which have additional insulation. Socks are periodically changed and dried (place over your shoulders under your jacket, around a hot water bottle, or over your stomach while you are in a sleeping bag.) Hiking boots typically have a hard sole, with an aggressive trend which provide good traction except when facing extremely icy conditions. One thing to watch out for is that the boots will absorb some water, and in colder conditions the boots will then freeze. It takes a lot of work to thaw solidly frozen boots. Don't let your boots freeze.
Synthetic Boots w/ Foam Insulation: There are two different types. Some are designed for hardcore mountaineering, and have hard, plastic exteriors. Others are primarily designed for protection against the cold such as those made by Baffin and will be softer. This approach will keep feet quite warm. The synthetic materials doesn't absorb water, so the only moisture problem will be what your feet produce. In extreme cold (< -20F) I think this is the best solution.
Trailrunners and Water Protective Socks: This is the approach I most often use. On most trips I have found that waterproof socks and trail runners (sealskinz + trail runners + gaiters) worked well in 20F conditions, even in deep snow. I recently went on a trip that this didn't work well. For some reason my feet were pretty damp. Even though it was moderate weather and only dropped to 28F, my feet were freezing. When I have a chance I will check my shoes for leaks. Other people have reported good results using neoprene socks.
Mukluks: Traditional Inuit footwear made from animal hides. Steger Mukluks seems to be one of the best regarded manufacturers. Mukluks don't have high traction soles which are needed for walking on ice, but if you are on ice, you already have crampons (stand-alone or part of your snowshoes), so not having this on your shoes should work just fine.
Overshoes: Haven't tried overboots (NEOS), or overshoes like Outdoor Research's Brooks Range, but many people seem to get good results using them. When using overshoes, you typically are wearing some sort of footwear inside the overboot which provide a good footbed. Some people don't wear shoes inside the overshoes, but rather use them as sort of a high tech mukluk.
Vapor Barrier Socks: VP socks can be used with any of the above footwear options. I have found VB socks a huge win once the temperature is below around 10F. Warmlite, RBH Designs, and Integral Designs make vapor barrier socks. The cheapest vapor barriers can be plastic bags. Bags holding sandwich bread or provided at some office buildings for wet umbrellas are an ideal shape, though you should expect them to last just a day or two before you rub a hole in them. Small Mylar oven roasting bags are a bit more durable, but are hard to find in the right shape.
Accessories: You might want to check toastyfeet insulating inserts. |
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发表于 2006-9-6 14:23